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skip to content climb north east in the north east? get into climbing now! main navigation menu home crag reviews environmental local international inspirational climbing quotations climbing gallery find us getting more from your climbs aprilthornthrift november 6, 2017 the most frequent questions we get asked here at climbnortheast are usually the simple ones. what’s the best type of chalk to use? am i using the right shoes for the job? is there a right way to test a crag? of course, all of these can be boiled down to one simple query: how can i get more from my climbs? the interesting thing about the climbing scene here in the uk, is that it largely relies upon shared knowledge and experience. although we might well take some lessons early on in our lives, either in school or at a weekend club, the way us climbers learn is usually by doing . with each session on an indoor climbing wall, we slowly start to accumulate the necessary tricks of the trade that will allow us to reach for the hard to reach handholds and pinion us to the necessary walls. these are skills that are built on hard graft and practice, rather than theoretical learning, meaning that we need to spend hours on walls in order to make progress on the actual rock. taking the time to develop and hone the myriad micro-skills involved in climbing requires focus, requiring you to have the humility to identify your own weaknesses and the ingenuity to find a way to eradicate them. this is just one of the many ways that you can learn to get more from your climbs. here are a few more to help you on your way: preparation, preparation, preparation climbers are often portrayed as fastidious people. careful and cautious, they understand they usually understand the importance of planning and preparation. then again, you can’t always believe everything that you read online… it sounds like teaching your grandma how to suck eggs, but it’s worth stating just to get the message out there. you can never plan enough for a day’s climb. everything from the route that you take to drive there to your packed lunch can be organised well ahead of schedule – the more that you have planned, the smoother your day will go and the more thought you can dedicate to the climbs that you embark on. test your gear have no fears well – ‘no fears’ is probably a bit of an exaggeration. still, one of the reasons behind even the most experienced climbers’ sudden lack of confidence is usually a mistrust in their gear. we spend hundreds of pounds on our climbing gear, but unless we thoroughly test it there will always be a niggling doubt in the back of our minds that it might not be able to hold our weight. building trust with our gear is as important as building trust with our friends. make sure that you take the time to give all your gear a thorough test in the days leading up to your climb. ropes, harnesses, helmets and carabiners should all be tugged, pulled and stressed so that you have 100% confidence in them when it comes to finally use them. it’s not a team game but it kind of is even on their biggest free solo climbs, the greats like steve mcclure and alain robert have a support team with them to make sure that, should anything go wrong, they have assistance if they need it. although most climbers are taught this at an early age, it’s worth repeating just in case there’s someone who didn’t get the message: unless you are actually alex honnold, you should never climb alone. climbing in a group is one of the best ways to balance safety with practicality. whilst one of you climbs, another member of the party can spot them with a crash mat and the third can stand at a distance and guide the climber along. in this fashion, each member of the party can benefit from the experience and everyone can learn from each other. scrambling and bouldering @ dartmoor aprilthornthrift october 17, 2017 tackling the boulders of hay tor on a saturday morning the good thing about spending around 6 or 7 hours driving down to dartmoor on a friday night is that you don’t struggle for sleep when you arrive at your destination. we’d booked lodgings in the plume of feathers in princetown, a grand old pub that has sat on the edge of the moor since 1785. although this building has been renovated and rebuilt extensively, a large part of the place still retains features from the 18th century. whilst this might sound all very authentic and historical, there was a small part of me worrying at the stability of roofing timber that had been weathered by nearly 300 years of dartmoor’s intense micro-climate. still, we managed to survive the night in a room that was both and affordable, considering the location. for those not in the know, princetown is one of the few points of civilisation that you’ll find within the first expanse of the moor. the village’s main point of interest, besides the excellent pub of course, is it’s prison. although the operation of the prison itself has been hugely scaled down since it’s heyday, around 600 or so low-risk prisoners are still kept there. as interested as i knew jacob was to take a closer peek at this rural oddity, the real reason we’d driven all this way was to tackle some of the excellent bouldering problems that we’d heard tell of down the grape vine. when we left ‘the plume’, as the locals are apt to call it, it was early in the morning and we were a little surprised at how nippy it was out. the good news was that it had stayed dry all night, so any rock that we’d tackle was almost guaranteed to be dry. leaving the pub, we pulled our waterproofs close to us as a brisk wind came rushing in from, what felt like, the heart of the moor. i was glad i’d packed some fur bobble hats for all of us, even if adam found his hat’s shade of purple a touch too feminine. it always pays to be prepared if you’re heading out into the unknown and there’s very much that feeling when you stride out into dartmoor for the first time. we had ambitiously planned to hike to our bouldering site, but when we glanced at our map we realised that the distance would probably take us nearly 6 hours to walk. thankfully the car was still an option, so we hopped on the smooth rural roads out to hay tor, one of the richest sites of bouldering in the country. it took us around 45 minutes to reach our destination, adam was a little worried that the best boulders would already be taken by the time that we arrived there – but he was worrying in vain. when we arrived at half nine, to adam’s relief, there wasn’t a soul in sight. we had the pick of the problems and continued to spend the day racing each other up challenging problems and building up quite the hunger. by the time we’d returned to the plume of feathers, at around 7pm, we were starving and more than ready to take a spot at the fire with a pint of ale. another weekend well-spent climbing! road trip down south @ dartmoor aprilthornthrift october 17, 2017 august 17, 2017 bouldering has seen a huge increase in popularity over the last few years. although some ultra-trad climbers may look down on this casual form of the sport, there are good reasons why more and more climbers are opting out of intensive climbing in favour of weekend bouldering excursion s. when you look at the facts it’s not hard to see why. bouldering is, by it’s nature, climbing on a smaller scale. instead of scaling tall edges and faces, problems are created out of rocks that are no more than 20ft tall, meaning that climbers can simply rely on a crash mat as their only form of safety, as opposed to the reams of ropes and other gear that usually accompany a full blown climbing expedition. we thought we’d see what all the fuss was about and also take another sneaky road trip, this time to deepest darkest devon or more specifically, dartmoor. other than being heavily featured in arthur conan doyle’s the hound of the baskervilles, dartmoor isn’t as well known to the rest of the country as it is to the climbing community. buried away in

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